Driving in Shikoku: An Island of Steep Mountains and Fast Rivers That Is Best Explored by Car

Shikoku has the smallest population of Japan’s four main islands, with a sparse rail network and few bus services, and its most beautiful scenery is almost all in the mountains. Under those conditions, driving in Shikoku is not just convenient but often the only practical way to get around.
Shikoku driving is among Japan’s hardest. Iya Valley prefectural roads often have single-lane two-way stretches, Shimanto River submersible bridges lack guardrails, and mountains have no street lights after dark. Prices are reference values checked in August 2026; check official sources.
Steep Mountains and Fast Rivers: The Outer Expressways Are Easy, the Central Mountains Are the Real Thing
Shikoku’s road network is like a doughnut. A complete expressway along the coast links the prefectural capitals of Takamatsu, Tokushima, Kochi and Matsuyama, with wide roads and light traffic that are easy to drive. The central Shikoku mountains have almost no expressways, only winding national and prefectural roads.
The Iya Valley, Oboke and the Shimanto River, Shikoku’s most representative sights, all lie in the central mountains. Outer expressways are easy but miss the highlights, so you must face mountain roads. Driving here differs completely from Kyushu or Hokkaido.

When You Should Rent a Car: Two Sights Away from Stations Is Enough
JR Shikoku rail passes make intercity travel very convenient; from October 2026 only 3-day and 7-day passes are sold. The deciding factor is whether you want places stations cannot reach, like the Iya Valley, Shimanto River and Cape Ashizuri.
With two or more such places, driving beats public transport for efficiency: in one day by car you can cover the vine bridge, Oboke and a hot spring inn. If your trip is the three cities of Takamatsu, Matsuyama and Kochi, a rail pass is easier, but from October 2026 it no longer includes the Shodoshima ferry and buses. Take trains between cities and rent a car for three days for the mountain section.
How Many Days for a Full Loop: Eight to Ten Days Without Constant Rushing
A loop around the edge of Shikoku is roughly 1,000 to 1,200 kilometers. That number does not sound frightening, but because mountain roads are mixed in, the real average speed is far below expressway figures.
From experience, 8 to 10 days is most comfortable, covering all four prefectures and the hidden mountain areas. With 6 to 7 days, you usually have to drop either Cape Ashizuri or the Shimanto River. With 3 to 5 days, you can only drive the expressways in a rush, and the mountain section must be cut entirely. With only five days off, it is better not to force a full loop but to choose half, such as Kagawa and Tokushima plus the Iya Valley, or Kochi and Ehime, and leave the rest for the next trip.

Where the Money Goes: Rental, Tolls and the Sea Bridges
One item in the cost structure of driving in Shikoku does not exist elsewhere: the sea bridges. The Seto Ohashi Bridge, the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge and the Shimanami Kaido belong to the Honshu-Shikoku Bridge Expressway, with fairly high tolls that are not included in the SEP pass for foreign visitors.
Other costs match the rest of Japan: rental with optional insurance, fuel, tolls and parking. Parking is generally cheap outside central Takamatsu and Matsuyama, and free at many sights. Tolls need careful calculation, so SEP has its own section below.
What to Prepare for Driving in Shikoku: Japanese Translation and the Full Car Rental Process
The most common reason Taiwanese travelers fail to rent a car in Japan is incomplete documents. Taiwan is not a party to the Geneva Convention, so you cannot rent a car in Japan with an international driving permit; what you need is a Japanese translation of your license.
Below we go through the four essential documents, how to get the translation, and the booking, pickup and return process in order.
Four Documents: Original License, Japanese Translation, Passport and Reservation Confirmation
At the counter, bring your original Taiwan driver’s license, its original Japanese translation, your original Republic of China (Taiwan) passport, ideally valid six months more, and your rental reservation, printed or on your phone.
If the expiry date shown on your license has passed, some Japanese rental shops will refuse to release a car. Before departure, get a new license with no expiry date from a motor vehicles office, then apply for the translation. Taiwan is not a Geneva Convention country, so international driving permits are not valid in Japan, which is the opposite of what many people assume.
Getting the Translation: In Person at the Motor Vehicles Office, Fee Is About US$3
Get the Japanese translation at motor vehicles offices (regional and branch) across Taiwan. Apply in person with your original license and ID card. The fee is about US$3, and it is usually issued on the spot. Some offices accept online applications with mail delivery, which takes longer.
Never translate the document yourself or alter the translation, as either one invalidates it. The translation is valid only when shown together with the original license, so bringing only the translation will get you refused a car. After you get a replacement license, the old translation is void and you must apply again. Rely on the motor vehicles office’s announcements for actual fees and validity.
Booking: Don’t Be Stingy on a Mountain Trip, and Choose the Right Car
You can book through Japanese car rental comparison sites with a Chinese-language interface, or directly with a large chain. Shikoku rental locations are concentrated at Takamatsu Airport, Takamatsu Station, Matsuyama Airport, Kochi Airport and Tokushima Station, and are much sparser elsewhere.
Kei cars (660 cc or under, yellow plates) suit narrow mountain roads, but check with the rental company whether SEP accepts them. If not, you lose the discount. For mostly expressway driving, a white-plate car usually offers better value.
At Pickup: Set Up MapCode and the Navigation Language First
Pickup works the same as anywhere in Japan: document check, contract signing, insurance confirmation, exterior walk-around, and controls briefing. Photograph all four sides with your phone. Have staff record any existing scratches on the spot.
The in-car GPS accepts MapCode or phone numbers, and MapCode is the most accurate for small mountain sights. Keep Google Maps running on your phone to cross-check, since both systems may route you onto industrial roads for the “shortest distance.” Before setting off, enter all of the day’s destinations once and confirm the route uses national or main prefectural roads.

Before Returning the Car: Mountain Gas Stations Close Early, So Don’t Leave It Until the End
Rental cars are lent and returned full, so refuel before return and keep receipts. Gas stations are plentiful in Takamatsu and Matsuyama but sparse near Iya Valley, Shimanto River and Cape Ashizuri. Many close by evening; Sunday closures are common.
Refuel when the gauge hits half, not at a quarter in the mountains. At self-service pumps, regular is “レギュラー” (red nozzle) and diesel is “軽油” (green), so don’t mix them up. At return, staff check the car and settle ETC tolls, and the sea bridge toll is usually paid then too.

Must-Drive Roads in Shikoku: An Eight-Day Loop Route and Mountain Driving in Practice
This section is the core of driving in Shikoku. We first give an eight-day loop route in and out of Takamatsu Airport as a skeleton, then break down the stretches that really need skill, such as the Iya Valley and the Shimanto River.
Road conditions change with weather, construction and season, so be sure to check road closure information for the day before you set out.
Eight-Day Loop Route: In and Out of Takamatsu, Avoiding Long Mountain Drives on Consecutive Days
Mountain drives never fall on consecutive days. On Day 1, you pick up the car in Takamatsu and visit Ritsurin Garden and the udon shops. On Day 2, you head to Tokushima to see the Naruto whirlpools and the Awa Odori Kaikan. On Day 3, you go into the Iya Valley to see the vine bridge and Oboke, and you stay overnight at a hot spring inn in the mountains so you do not drive again.
On Day 4, come down to Kochi to see Katsurahama and the Hirome Market. On Day 5, follow the Shimanto River to its submersible bridges and stay in Shimanto City or at Cape Ashizuri. On Day 6, head north via Uwajima to Matsuyama to visit Matsuyama Castle and Dogo Onsen. On Day 7, follow the Seto Inland Sea coast back to Kagawa, visit Kotohira-gu Shrine, and watch the sunset at Chichibugahama in the evening. On Day 8, return the car at Takamatsu Airport. Each day’s travel is kept within three hours, and mountain roads are concentrated only on Days 3 and 5.

Iya Valley: Single-Lane Two-Way Traffic on National Route 439 and Prefectural Route 32
Iya Valley roads hug gorges with many blind curves and narrow widths. Japanese netizens rank National Route 439 and Tokushima Prefectural Route 32 as difficult “kyodo” (rough) roads. Some stretches are only one lane wide but carry two-way traffic.
Reverse to a passing place for large oncoming buses or trucks. Three tips: check the roadside round mirror before blind curves; tap the horn lightly before entering it; and if a local car tailgates, pull into an open passing place and let it pass.
Iya Kazurabashi and Oboke: Two Spots to Park the Car Before You Explore
The Iya Kazurabashi is a suspension bridge woven from vines. The stream runs directly beneath your feet as you cross, and the gaps between the planks are wide enough to make your knees go weak. It is one of Shikoku’s most famous experiences. A paid car park nearby can have queues in busy season.
At Oboke Gorge, a sightseeing boat ride of about 30 minutes shows the crystalline schist on both banks from the water. The two sights are about 20 minutes apart by car, so they fit smoothly into the same day. Admission and boat fares may change, and boats do not run in heavy rain or at high water, so check that day’s operations before you go. Mobile signal in this area also comes and goes, so save your navigation route offline in advance.
Shimanto Submersible Bridges: No Guardrails, and Never Pass Another Car on the Bridge
Submersible bridges (chinkabashi) let floodwater flow over them, with no guardrails. Dozens sit along the Shimanto River, most famously the Sada and Iwama submersible bridges. Crossing one is Shikoku’s signature drive, yet it demands the most discipline.
Never pass vehicles on the bridge. Check the far end; if traffic comes, wait at the bridge end. Lower both windows to judge tire distance and exit quickly. Keep to 10 km/h down the middle; it is very safe. If unsure, park and walk across to take photos.

The Navigation Trap: Take the Longer Route Rather Than Cut Through Industrial Roads
This is where driving most often goes wrong. Japanese car navigation and Google Maps sometimes route for the shortest distance onto deep-mountain industrial roads under two meters wide, where mirrors brush branches. No passing room exists, and reversing out is almost impossible.
Stick to national or major prefectural roads. If navigation sends you onto a small unnumbered road, switch to a longer route on a larger road. An extra 30 minutes beats getting stuck in the mountains. Never take a hairline-thin, unnamed map line.
Mountain Roads at Night: No Street Lights in the Shikoku Mountains, So Be at Your Hotel by 17:00
Thick fog forms very easily in the Shikoku mountains in the afternoon, and visibility can drop to only a dozen or so meters within minutes. When that happens, turn on your front and rear fog lights and hazard lights immediately and slow down to a speed at which you can stop at any moment.
Time planning matters even more: the Shikoku mountains have no street lights at all, and the difficulty of narrow roads and blind curves multiplies after dark. We strongly recommend scheduling all mountain driving in daylight and arriving at that night’s hot spring inn or hotel before 5 p.m. This is also why the eight-day route places the Iya Valley night’s lodging in the mountains, so that once you check in, you do not have to drive down at night.

Naruto Whirlpools: Easy Expressway Driving, but You Need the Right Tide Time
The stretch from Takamatsu to Tokushima is almost entirely expressway, with easy conditions, making it a good warm-up. The Naruto whirlpools are in the Naruto Strait; drive to the Naruto Park car park and walk to Uzu-no-Michi, or go to the port to take a whirlpool-viewing boat.
Whirlpools depend on the tide, and only a few times a day do they become big. Spring-tide and neap-tide days differ greatly, so always check that day’s tide table before deciding what time to arrive, otherwise you will drive for two hours and see only calm water. The car park often fills up in busy season and on long weekends, so set out early. Please rely on on-site notices for admission and boat fares.

Kochi City: Parking at Katsurahama and the Drinking Problem at Hirome Market
Katsurahama is Kochi’s signature beach, with a statue of Sakamoto Ryoma standing on the cliff facing the Pacific. It is about a 30-minute drive from central Kochi, with paid car parks nearby that are tight on holidays.
In the evening, Hirome Market in Kochi is the core of the food scene, with charcoal-grilled seared bonito (tataki) and local sake as its signatures. Japan has zero tolerance for drunk driving, so if you drive that night, you cannot drink at all. The practical solution is to book a hotel within walking distance in the city, park your car there, and walk to eat. This is the night of the trip most worth adjusting your lodging for.
Shimanto to Matsuyama: Allow Three Hours for the Drive North via Uwajima
Head north from Shimanto City to Matsuyama via Uwajima, along Ehime’s southwest side. The distance is long, and some stretches are not expressway, so the drive usually takes around three hours. This is the most easily underestimated day of the eight-day route, so do not squeeze in more sights.
After arriving in Matsuyama, Matsuyama Castle sits on a hilltop in the city center and can be reached by ropeway or chairlift. Dogo Onsen Honkan is one of Japan’s oldest hot springs. Parking in central Matsuyama is expensive by Shikoku standards, so confirm hotel parking when booking. If you stay in Dogo Onsen that night, most inns have their own car parks, so parking there is easier than parking in the city.
Back to Kagawa: The Steps of Kotohira-gu and the Sunset at Chichibugahama
The return follows the Seto Inland Sea coast, and the two highlights in Kagawa that day are one active and one calm. The approach to Kotohira-gu has 785 stone steps up to the main shrine, about two hours round trip, so wear comfortable shoes. Several paid car parks sit near the start of the approach.
Chichibugahama is a beach that went viral in recent years as a “mirror of the sky”: at low tide with no wind, the water reflects the sky, and it is most beautiful at sunset, so check the tide table before you go. The car park is free but fills up in the evening, so arrive an hour early. The two places are about an hour apart by car, which fits neatly into one day.
How Much Does Driving in Shikoku Cost? SEP Expressway Pass and Insurance Costs Explained
In the cost structure of driving in Shikoku, the part that needs the most thought is the SEP expressway pass, which has a billing rule that is very easy to get wrong. The SEP expressway pass is the part of the cost structure that needs the most thought, so plan it carefully.
All amounts below are reference values checked in August 2026; please rely on the rental company’s and NEXCO West Japan’s announcements on the day for actual figures.
The official source of information is NEXCO West Japan’s SEP page (global.w-nexco.co.jp/en/sep/, in English).
SEP: All-You-Can-Drive Expressways Across Shikoku, the Seto Inland Sea Area and San’in
SEP, the San’in-Setouchi-Shikoku Expressway Pass, is a flat-rate toll plan designed for foreign visitors that runs from 3 to 10 days. For one fixed fee, you can use the designated expressways in all four Shikoku prefectures, plus Hyogo, Okayama, Hiroshima, Tottori, Shimane, Yamaguchi and other areas, without limit. NEXCO West Japan has announced standard-car prices of ¥10,700 for 3 days, ¥11,700 for 4 days, ¥12,700 for 5 days, ¥13,700 for 6 days, ¥14,700 for 7 days, ¥15,700 for 8 days, ¥16,700 for 9 days and ¥17,700 for 10 days, with a flat ¥1,000 added for each extra day.
Arrange SEP together with the car rental; it is tied to the ETC card the rental company supplies and cannot be bought separately. On loop trips, expressway tolls add up considerably and SEP usually pays off. If you mostly drive national roads in the mountains, its value drops sharply. Please rely on official announcements for actual prices and coverage.
SEP Standard-Car Prices: 3 to 10 Days at a Glance
NEXCO West Japan’s standard-car prices are ¥10,700 for 3 days, ¥11,700 for 4, ¥12,700 for 5, ¥13,700 for 6, ¥14,700 for 7, ¥15,700 for 8, ¥16,700 for 9 and ¥17,700 for 10, with ¥1,000 added for each extra day. Rely on official announcements for prices.
Where People Most Often Miscalculate: SEP Counts Calendar Days, Not 24 Hours
The official page states SEP’s most treacherous rule: a SEP “day” is a calendar day, 0:00 to 23:59, not 24 hours. Renting from 3 p.m. Monday to 3 p.m. Thursday gives three days and 72 hours but spans four dates, so you need the 4-day SEP.
Many people buy according to the number of rental days, but on the last day the system judges them out of range when they exit the expressway. The full toll is charged to their ETC card, and the whole amount must be paid when they return the car. When booking, count the dates a rental spans, not 24-hour periods. Be especially careful with red-eye pickups or late-night returns that cross midnight.
Three Sea Bridges: Honshi Expressway Tolls Are Not Included in SEP
The Seto Ohashi Bridge, Akashi Kaikyo Bridge (Kobe-Awaji-Naruto Expressway) and Shimanami Kaido belong to the Honshi Expressway, and SEP excludes their tolls. SEP does cover the connecting interchanges, such as Naruto IC, Sakaide IC, Hayashima IC and Kobe-Nishi IC, so you pay extra only for the sea-bridge section. Amounts vary by section and weekday or holiday, so check the Honshi Expressway’s official announcements.
You pay the bridge fee by ETC. It is recorded on the card and settled at the counter when you return the car, so budget for it separately. You will definitely hit it when driving into Shikoku from Osaka or Okayama. If you fly directly to Takamatsu, Matsuyama or Kochi and rent there, you will not.
Kei Cars and SEP: A Cheaper Car Does Not Mean Savings
A kei car (660 cc or under, yellow plates) may or may not be allowed on SEP, depending on the rental company’s rules, because SEP targets standard cars. Even if it is allowed, SEP does not cost less for a smaller car. Kei cars suit narrow Shikoku roads such as those in the Iya Valley, and their rental and ordinary tolls are cheaper too. Once you buy SEP, though, you lose that toll advantage.
How should you choose? If your trip is mostly in the mountains with little expressway mileage, renting a kei car, skipping SEP and paying tolls by actual distance can give a lower total cost. If you drive the full loop and use the outer expressways heavily, SEP is worth buying. If the kei car cannot be used with SEP and space is tight, a regular white-plate car usually makes more sense. Estimate your expected expressway mileage before you decide.

Insurance and Price Comparison: CDW Plus NOC Matters More Than the Daily Rate
Scrapes are more likely on Shikoku’s mountain roads than on flat ground, so never skimp on insurance. Add both Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), which reduces your out-of-pocket accident excess to zero, and Non-Operation Charge (NOC) coverage, which compensates the rental company for its losses while the car is being repaired. You need both to be fully covered.
When comparing prices, look beyond the daily rate. Some plans include full insurance and an ETC card, while others charge extra for everything. Car class, one-way drop-off fees and child seats also affect the price. Choose the car class first, check whether full insurance is included, then compare total prices. If a driver not named in the contract drives, all insurance is void, so register everyone who will take turns driving in advance.
What to Watch Out for When Driving in Shikoku: Lodging, Seasons and Pre-Trip Reminders

Half of whether a Shikoku driving trip succeeds depends on where you place your lodging and whether you keep mountain driving to daylight. The four points below are the ones most worth sorting out first.
Where to Stay: Spend the Mountain Night in the Mountains
The lodging logic for driving in Shikoku has one core: on the day you drive the mountains, spend the night in the mountains and do not come down. Hot spring inns in the Iya Valley cost a bit more, but what you save is the risk of driving narrow roads in the dark for two hours, and that money is well spent.
On other days, use the prefectural capitals as bases. Business hotels in Takamatsu, Tokushima, Kochi and Matsuyama are reasonably priced and easy to park at. City hotel parking usually costs extra and has limited spaces, so when booking, confirm whether the car park (駐車場) is free, paid or needs a reservation, and whether there is a height limit. For the Kochi night, choose a hotel within walking distance of Hirome Market.
Seasons: Typhoons and Winter Road Closures Can Rewrite Your Plans
Shikoku gets some of Japan’s heaviest rain, especially around Kochi. During summer and autumn typhoons, mountain roads may close due to rockfalls or landslides, and the Oboke boats also stop running. In winter, snow and ice may form in the Ishizuchi range and the mountains’ interior, so winter tires are needed.
Prepare in three ways. Check road closure information the day before you set out. Keep a backup in your itinerary; for example, if you cannot reach the Iya Valley, switch to central Kochi. When renting, ask whether you need snow tires for the season. Mountain roads often have fallen rocks and debris during the rainy season and after typhoons, so watch the road surface more closely in curves.
Supplies in Rural Areas: Convenience Stores Are Rarer Than You Think
The density of convenience stores in central Shikoku’s mountains and the southwest is far lower than in urban areas, and sometimes you will not see one for an hour of driving. Restaurants also often take a break at 2 p.m. and close at 6 p.m., and if you miss them you can only eat instant noodles.
Treat Michi-no-Eki (道の駅, roadside stations) as supply points, and mark on your map which ones lie along each day’s route. They usually have restrooms, local produce and light meals, and some even have hot springs. Before setting off, buy water and snacks at a supermarket or convenience store in the city. You will be glad you did if the mountains have a traffic jam or a road closure.
Rules: Come to a Full Stop at 止まれ, and Zero Tolerance for Drunk Driving
In Japan you drive on the left with the steering wheel on the right (right-hand drive), and the wiper and turn signal stalks are the opposite of Taiwan’s, so do a couple of laps of the car park to get used to it before setting off. At a red “止まれ” (stop) sign you must come to a complete stop, not just slow down.
Drunk driving is met with zero tolerance, and passengers in the same car may also be penalized. This matters especially if you plan to drink sake in Kochi. Japan also enforces illegal parking strictly, and the rental company will bill you directly for any ticket. On mountain roads, pulling over at a passing place when a vehicle is close behind is normal, so you need not feel offended.
Shikoku Self-Drive FAQ
Below are the questions Taiwanese travelers most often ask before renting a car and driving in Shikoku.
Q: Can I rent a car in Shikoku with an international driving permit?
No. Taiwan is not a party to the Geneva Convention, so an international driving permit does not work for renting a car in Japan. You need four things: your original Taiwan driver’s license, the original Japanese translation of that license, your original passport and the rental reservation confirmation. Get the translation in person at motor vehicle offices across Taiwan for about US$3. You must not translate it yourself or alter it.
Q: How should I count SEP days so I don’t buy the wrong one?
Count dates, not 24-hour periods. SEP is billed by calendar day, 0:00 to 23:59. Rent from 3 p.m. Monday to 3 p.m. Thursday: that is three days and 72 hours but four dates, so buy the 4-day version. Otherwise, the last day’s tolls are billed in full.
Q: Is the Seto Ohashi Bridge toll included in SEP? What about the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge?
No. The Seto Ohashi Bridge, Akashi Kaikyo Bridge and Shimanami Kaido belong to the Honshu-Shikoku Bridge Expressway and sit outside SEP. Tolls are recorded on your ETC card and paid at the counter when you return the car. If you fly directly to Takamatsu, Matsuyama or Kochi and pick up a car there, you avoid this charge.
Q: Is driving in Shikoku difficult? Can a beginner take on the Iya Valley?
Yes, with care. Drive by daylight on main roads, reach lodging before 5 p.m., and back up to passing places for large vehicles. Without mountain experience or with elderly relatives or small children, book a chartered car or bus for the Iya Valley day and drive on other days.
Q: Do I have to drive across the submersible bridges?
Not necessarily. Park at the bridge end and walk across for photos. If you drive, never pass another car on the bridge: check nothing is coming, roll down both side windows, and cross slowly down the exact middle at 10 km/h. Submersible bridges lack guardrails, so go slow.
Q: Can I loop around Shikoku in five days?
A full loop is about 1,000 to 1,200 km; five days means rushing expressways and skipping most mountain roads. Plan eight to ten days for comfort. With only five days off, drive half a loop instead: Kagawa and Tokushima with the Iya Valley, or Kochi and Ehime with the Shimanto River.
Q: Is a kei car (K-car) a good choice in Shikoku?
It depends on your itinerary. A kei car’s narrow body makes narrow roads in the Iya Valley and Shimanto much easier, and its rental and ordinary tolls are cheaper too, but SEP targets standard cars, so check with the rental company whether you can apply, and you would also miss out on the toll advantage. If most of your trip is in the mountains with little expressway mileage, a kei car without SEP is usually cheaper; for full-loop trips with heavy expressway driving and SEP, a regular white-plate car makes more sense for space and comfort. For four people plus luggage, we suggest going straight to a regular sedan.

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